Madrid nights according to Hemingway
“No one goes to bed in Madrid before the night has been killed,” wrote Ernest Hemingway .
And he was right. Madrid at night is a vibrant spectacle of history, art and lights that never go out. From the Plaza Mayor to the hidden taverns, the city breathes a unique energy that continues to inspire artists and writers, as demonstrated by Marco Lawrence 's “ Operation Madrid ” poster.
Hemingway and the Madrid Nights
Hemingway didn't just come to Madrid, he fell in love with it . Its streets, its bars and its history became his muse. From the cafés where he shared discussions with journalists and poets to the tablaos where flamenco lit up the night, the writer found an unrivalled passion in Madrid.
Their stories capture the essence of a city that, even today, maintains that intensity alive.
The Plaza Mayor: Living History in the Heart of Madrid
To talk about Madrid at night is to talk about the Plaza Mayor. Since its construction in the 17th century, it has witnessed street markets, royal celebrations and historical conspiracies.
Today, it remains the epicentre of Madrid life , with restaurants serving everything from Madrid stew to tapas with vermouth. During the winter, its Christmas lights and markets turn it into an urban fairy tale.
But there is more than just pretty postcards, in every corner of the Plaza Mayor there are hidden stories of spies , writers and endless nights.
It is no coincidence that Marco Lawrence chose this setting for “ Operation Madrid ,” a film that captures the mystery and charm of the city.
“Operation Madrid”: A Journey to the Secret Nights of the City
In his work, Marco Lawrence transports us to 1916, when the Plaza Mayor was the meeting point of enigmatic characters. Mata Hari , the famous spy, and the writer Enrique Gómez Carrillo walked through its arches in a romance as clandestine as the shadows that the light of Madrid projects on its cobbled streets.
“ The light in Madrid is bold and graphic ,” says Lawrence. And in “ Operation Madrid ” he manages to capture the play of light and shadow that Hemingway described so accurately. With every stroke, the print pays homage to the city’s nocturnal history and indomitable spirit.
Hemingway's Corners in Madrid: Where to Eat and Drink Like Him?
If you want to follow in Hemingway's footsteps in Madrid, here are some of his favorite places:
📍 Sobrino de Botín Restaurant
Founded in 1725, this is the oldest restaurant in the world according to Guinness World Records. Hemingway mentioned it in Fiesta and considered it one of his favourites. Try the roast suckling pig, their signature dish.
🍷 Grandfather's House
A Madrid classic where Hemingway enjoyed garlic prawns accompanied by a good sweet wine. Perfect for a stop between walks.
🍸Chicote Museum
This iconic cocktail bar on Gran Via was another of Hemingway's favourites. Its Martini remains legendary , making you feel like a character in one of his novels.
🍻German Brewery
Located in Plaza de Santa Ana, this brewery was their refuge for afternoons of beers and tapas . A charming place that continues to attract locals and tourists alike.
Madrid Today: A City That Never Sleeps
If Hemingway were to return to Madrid today, he would find the same vitality . The Plaza Mayor remains the soul of the city, a place where time seems to stand still and the night invites you to stay a little longer. Because Madrid is not only visited, it is lived, felt and, now, also hung on the walls.
“ Operation Madrid ” is available in limited edition at The Madrileñer . Take home a piece of Madrid's nightlife and let Hemingway whisper in your ear: in Madrid, the night is eternal .
⮕ Get your print Operation Madrid
