Madrid nights according to Hemingway
“Nobody goes to bed in Madrid before having killed the night,” wrote Ernest Hemingway .
And he was right. Madrid at night is a vibrant spectacle of history, art, and lights that never go out. From the Plaza Mayor to the hidden taverns, the city breathes a unique energy that continues to inspire artists and writers, as demonstrated by Marco Lawrence 's print " Operation Madrid ."
Hemingway and the Nights of Madrid
Hemingway didn't just come to Madrid, he fell in love with it . Its streets, its bars, and its history became his muse. From the cafés where he shared conversations with journalists and poets to the flamenco venues where flamenco ignited the night, the writer found an unparalleled passion in Madrid.
His stories capture the essence of a city that, even today, keeps that intensity alive.
The Plaza Mayor: Living History in the Heart of Madrid
To speak of Madrid at night is to speak of the Plaza Mayor. Since its construction in the 17th century, it has witnessed markets, royal celebrations, and historical conspiracies.
Today, it remains the epicenter of Madrid life , with restaurants serving everything from traditional Madrid stew to tapas with vermouth. During the winter, its lights and Christmas markets transform it into an urban fairytale.
But there's more than just pretty pictures; in every corner of the Plaza Mayor there are hidden stories of spies , writers, and endless nights.
It is no coincidence that Marco Lawrence chose this setting for " Operation Madrid ", a print that captures the mystery and charm of the city.
“Operation Madrid”: A Journey to the Secret Nights of the City
In his work, Marco Lawrence transports us to 1916, when the Plaza Mayor was a meeting point for enigmatic figures. Mata Hari , the famous spy, and the writer Enrique Gómez Carrillo strolled through its archways in a romance as clandestine as the shadows that the Madrid light casts on its cobbled streets.
“ The light in Madrid is bold and graphic ,” says Lawrence. And in “ Operation Madrid ” he manages to capture that interplay of light and shadow that Hemingway described with such precision. With every stroke, the illustration pays homage to the city’s nocturnal history and its indomitable spirit.
Hemingway's haunts in Madrid: Where to eat and drink like him?
If you want to follow in Hemingway's footsteps in Madrid, here are some of his favorite places:
📍 Sobrino de Botín Restaurant
Founded in 1725, this is the oldest restaurant in the world according to Guinness World Records. Hemingway mentioned it in The Sun Also Rises and considered it one of his favorites. Try the roast suckling pig, their signature dish.
🍷 Grandpa's House
A Madrid classic where Hemingway enjoyed garlic prawns paired with a good sweet wine. Perfect for a stop between walks.
🍸Chicote Museum
This iconic cocktail bar on Gran Vía was another of Hemingway's favorites. Its Martini remains legendary , perfect for feeling like a character from one of his novels.
🍻German Brewery
Located in Plaza de Santa Ana, this brewery was their refuge for afternoons of beers and tapas . A charming place that continues to attract locals and tourists alike.
Madrid Today: A City That Never Sleeps
If Hemingway were to return to Madrid today, he would find the same vitality . The Plaza Mayor remains the soul of the city, a place where time seems to stand still and the night invites you to linger a little longer. Because Madrid isn't just visited, it's lived, felt, and now, even hung on walls.
“ Operation Madrid ” is available in a limited edition at The Madrilener . Take home a piece of Madrid's nightlife and let Hemingway whisper in your ear: in Madrid, the night is eternal .
⮕ Get your print Operation Madrid
